New chef-owner makes Cohasset bistro even better

Roasted haddock is a tender filet of haddock served in a slightly soupy sauce of Roma tomatoes and Kalamata olives over a large portion of steamed, very fresh spinach.

IN THE KITCHEN

You can spot new chef-owner Brian Hennebury at work in the small open kitchen of 5 South Main in Cohasset for breakfast, lunch — and now, dinner, too. Fresh off a nine-year stint as executive chef of Hingham’s upscale Tosca, the Rockland resident bought this gem of an eatery from Jennifer Warshaw in March. Longtime fans of the restaurant’s popular brunch and lunch menus have nothing to worry about. “I’ve tweaked some of the dishes, but my attitude is why fix it if it isn’t broken,” said Hennebury. The big news here is that the chef has opened for dinner and, in August, secured a beer-and-wine license.

THE LOCALE

Cohasset fits the definition of a quaint New England town, and 5 South Main is in the heart of the village, just beneath the oversized bell tower of St. Stephen’s church. The restaurant seats 28 people, and another eight outside. It’s a cozy, pleasing space, with a half wall providing some angled corners for tables. You can also sit in the sun at two streetside window booths. Hennebury had been searching for a location to open his first place and, like so many, couldn’t resist the charm of this spot.

ON THE MENU Dinner — with its starters, salads, pastas, and a half-dozen entrees — lets its new chef shine. “I don’t like big menus,” Hennebury said. “With a smaller menu you can focus on keeping things fresh and made to order.” Offering pasta dishes in either starter or entrée sizes expands options and so do the protein add-ons (lemon rosemary chicken, pesto shrimp, and flat iron steak) offered with the four salads. Sitting outside one night, we start with lobster sliders ($16). Sandwiched between buttered and grilled brioche buns — a wondrous reminder of the magic of simple ingredients — the pair are overstuffed with a summery lobster salad lightly dressed with lemon aioli. Among the mains, the roasted haddock ($23) is a welcome and uncommon preparation. A tender filet of haddock is served in a slightly soupy sauce of Roma tomatoes and Kalamata olives over a large portion of steamed, very fresh spinach. I could eat it every day. Hennebury described his cuisine as casual bistro with an Italian accent, and his Bolognese says ciao. The dinner portion ($22) is a big bowl of al dente rigatoni, in a clingy ragu, topped with dollops of whipped ricotta. Even better though — actually outstanding — is his cacio e pepe ($12), the deceptively simple cheese-and-pepper dish sometimes used to measure a chef’s skills. We order it as an appetizer, and the kitchen nicely divides even that smaller portion into two beautiful bowls. Creamy yet light, the bucatini again al dente, the dish is absolutely fantastic. Another evening, we enjoy the roasted organic chicken ($21). Served with light mashed potatoes and fresh asparagus, it’s a good dish. The pesto roasted shrimp ($22), over fresh cavatelli and roasted peppers, can’t erase a longing for more cacio e pepe.

Hennebury is about to roll out a new fall menu, which should be exciting as his creativity expands in his own kitchen. I love small neighborhood places, like this one, when a great chef-owner is behind the line.

5 South Main, 5 South Main St., Cohasset, 781-383-3555, 5southmain.com.

Joan Wilder can be reached at joan.wilder@gmail.com.

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