Cream Etc co-owners husband and wife Craig Perry and Lenora Cushing describe their food as farm-to-table and, indeed, every dish could start a conversation about how its ingredients were sourced. Last year, when the couple decided to open a breakfast-and-lunch place adjacent to their ice-cream shop, Cream, they knew they didn’t want to do it unless they could buy their ingredients locally. Since opening in August, they’ve learned a lot about regional farmers and food purveyors.
“Doing this, you start to really appreciate what you’re buying and selling and what farmers do to produce their foods,” said Perry. Cushing, a home cook, created the menu with chefs Phillip Caramello and Chris Monteiro, then began the search for local provisions.
Boston Globe photo by John Tlumacki
Free-range chicken, eggs, and grass-fed beef come from Feather Brook Farm in Raynham. Produce, from several places, including Norwell Farms, Lipinski’s Farm in Hanson, Norton’s Second Nature Farm, and Stillman’s Farm in Lunenburg. Cheeses and yogurt come from Narragansett Creamery in Providence. A friend delivers maple syrup from Wheeler Farm, in Wilmington, Vt., lowering the cost of this pricey commodity a bit. Their coffee comes from Hingham’s Redeye Roasters, their milk from Hingham’s Hornstra Farms. And on and on it goes.
THE LOCALE
Because locally sourced, often organically grown, humanely raised food is much more costly than factory-farmed products, farm-to-table restaurants are often either high-end, gorgeously decorated places or rustic spots with crafty, handmade interior design elements. But Cream Etc is a clean, brightly lit, sparsely decorated rectangle, adjacent to Cream ice-cream shop, on Route 18. Walking in off the street, you’d never guess that the eggs you’re about to order are from Arthur Largey, a nearby farmer who, according to Perry, “cares about the animals he’s raising from beginning to end.” Nor would you expect that the lettuce in your salad was picked that morning. Perry and Cushing renovated the space before opening, installing wooden floors, a shiny tin ceiling, subway tile in the open kitchen, and stone in the bathrooms. It’s a great blank slate but lacks atmosphere. If we’re lucky enough to have Cream Etc succeed and stick around, I’m guessing its interior design will evolve.
ON THE MENU
Whether or not you’re interested in where ingredients are sourced, the food we had on two recent visits was very good. The all-day menu has lots of breakfast and lunch choices, so you can have a grilled chicken sandwich at 8 a.m. or pancakes for lunch, if you want.
The home-style dishes are familiar, but sometimes have a twist. Chicken confit hash with poached eggs ($9.95) comes with sautéed green beans as well as the house breakfast potatoes – a combo of white and sweet fried potatoes with onion – fabulous. Some pancakes and waffles can be ordered with a choice of apple and walnut or blueberry compote. The egg white omelet ($8.95) is sided with sautéed veggies or goat cheese, and the Italian eggs Benedict ($9.95) comes with prosciutto, hollandaise, and pesto.
Eggs any style, bacon, breakfast potatoes, and toast ($8.95) is a big plate of delicious. The brioche French toast is divinely served with a little glass pitcher of Vermont maple syrup ($6.95). The decadent breakfast burger ($12.95) is worth every penny: a grass-fed patty (perfectly cooked) is topped with cheese, bacon, and a fried egg that spills its yoke like a sauce at the first bite. It’s sided with tomato (they’re still farm fresh this time of year), Boston lettuce, and the house breakfast potatoes.
I love this place: I hope it makes it.
Cream Etc, 1209 Bedford St. (Route 18), Abington, 781-982-9400
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