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At Art’s, Food that matches the view

IN THE KITCHEN To get the picture, you have to understand this: Art’s is owned by the dynamic brother and sister who ran the iconic Arthur and Pat’s in Marshfield for more than 30 years until the weather-beaten beach place simply couldn’t be resurrected after the bruising winter of 2014-15. Art D’Allessandro is the cooking[…..]

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Major addition to the food scene in Quincy

IN THE KITCHEN If talent’s in the blood, 16C owner Kerri Lynch Delaney’s got it. A pastry chef who recently sold her wonderful Babycakes cupcake shop in Quincy, Lynch Delaney is a niece of chef Barbara Lynch, the nationally acclaimed, Boston-based restaurateur behind Beacon Hill’s No. 9 Park, the rarified Menton, and Sportello, to name[…..]

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Little Carmen’s for breakfast and lunch

IN THE KITCHEN After years of owning Carmen’s Café Nicole on Plymouth Harbor, with its tourist-based, weather-driven seasonal uncertainties, Nicole DiGuisto is thrilled to have landed in Norwell in a year-round, busy location. Her new breakfast-and-lunch place, Little Carmen’s, opened in late March. The restaurant’s namesake is DiGuisto’s father, Carmen DiGuisto, who owned Carmen’s Mexican[…..]

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The Foodsmith builds a reputation to go

IN THE KITCHEN If loving food is a cook’s secret weapon, The Foodsmith is in good hands. Three years ago, its co-owner, Laura Raposa, walked away from a coveted job at the Boston Herald to do what she’d always loved. Today, instead of covering social events to get fodder for the Inside Track column she cowrote[…..]

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Milton restaurant draws a crowd

IN THE KITCHEN The open, V-shaped, stainless steel kitchen in the rear of Novara looks like the crowded prow of a ship forging the way forward. At the helm, overseeing six to eight cooks, is executive chef Tony DiRienzo, who performs the same role at Abby Park, two doors up the street. A ’94 graduate[…..]

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Carefully sourced local foods done well

Cream Etc co-owners husband and wife Craig Perry and Lenora Cushing describe their food as farm-to-table and, indeed, every dish could start a conversation about how its ingredients were sourced. Last year, when the couple decided to open a breakfast-and-lunch place adjacent to their ice-cream shop, Cream, they knew they didn’t want to do it[…..]

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Townshend: New urban spot in downtown Quincy

IN THE KITCHEN It’s reassuring to see chef Bobby Sisson in his kitchen whites circle into the dining room to deliver the occasional dish, arriving via the atrium-end door of The Townshend and returning through a passageway next to the bar. Sisson, who was the fish butcher at Boston’s Island Creek Oyster Bar, is dead[…..]

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Thai Noodle Bar in Quincy

IN THE KITCHEN Chef-owner Jittipong Rakritikul, 33, began cooking when he was 8 years old with his grandmother in a small village in Phetchabun Province in central Thailand. After middle school, he earned a certificate in nutrition at the nearby Phitsanulok Vocational College, and, at 24, a degree in hospitality and commercial cookery in Sydney. Spending[…..]

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Bia Bistro at 12 years old

IN THE KITCHEN It’s been almost 12 years since chef-owner Brian Houlihan opened Bia Bistro — cooking his heart out in what was then a 45-seat restaurant. Houlihan arrived in Cohasset after working in restaurants in his native County Cork, Ireland, and several years as executive chef at the Regal Bostonian’s Seasons and sous-chef at[…..]

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The Jetty: Progressive American food

IN THE KITCHEN One bite at The Jetty and you can’t help but wonder who the heck is in the kitchen. Midafternoon at a remote beach on a cloudy summer weekday — and you can’t expect much. Yet, restaurants live or die by their capacity to produce consistently good fare any time of any day. Turns[…..]

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Taj Modern

IN THE KITCHEN When Raginder Singh, longtime co-owner of Quick 6 Liquors in Weymouth, heard earlier this year that the restaurant space across the street was becoming available, he knew he wanted to get back into the kitchen. The native of India has cooked in many restaurants since immigrating to the United States in 1992, and[…..]

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New owner of Bridgeman’s doing something right

IN THE KITCHEN Things have changed at Bridgeman’s. In January, after 13 years, the Hull restaurant was sold to area resident Harold Paine, who had become attracted to the hospitality industry while doing large-scale construction for restaurants. Although Paine’s a newcomer, the kitchen remains in the hands of veteran chef John Lambiase, who’s been at[…..]

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Mother Anna’s: A time-tested Menu

IN THE KITCHEN Mother Anna’s kitchen isn’t about a new Italian cuisine that so many chefs have quested after since the principles of nouvelle cuisine hit this country in the 1970s. Forget about carefully composed, lighter plates, artful streaks of sauce, and local foraging. Mother Anna’s chef-owner, Alan Caparella, is cooking his great-grandmother’s dishes — just[…..]

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CP’s Wood-fired Pizza: Italian and Creole on the menu

IN THE KITCHEN You don’t often see pizza and jambalaya on the same menu, but, hey, why shouldn’t a chef cook what he loves? CP’s Wood-Fired Pizza owner Christopher Patrick has been doing exactly that since last August, when he bought the small restaurant from his former boss, chef Jimmy Burke. Patrick, who went to[…..]

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Homestyle Moroccan at Cafe Paprika in Norwood

IN THE KITCHEN It doesn’t take a chemist to be a great cook, but it doesn’t hurt either. Or so we have to believe after learning that Café Paprika’s owner left that profession for something he loved– the cuisine of his native Morrocco. “You have to find your calling,” said Lahssen Abaichi, who worked in[…..]

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Vico Italiano for eating with family and friends

IN THE KITCHEN  A large staff in a small restaurant signals a restaurant wanting to please its guests. On busy nights, Vico Ristorante Italiano’s owner-chef, Vincenzo Loffredo, has two cooks with him in the kitchen while four waiters, a busgirl, and his wife, Maria Loffredo, handle the front of the house. The chef was born[…..]

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Four Square Restaurant and Bar

IN THE KITCHEN The kitchen at Four Square Restaurant and Bar is a workman’s space: stainless, solid, and perfectly equipped for turning out the everyday food a neighborhood runs on. Tucked in the rear of the long, narrow pub, the kitchen is co-owner/chef Marko Piro Fani’s realm, and you can see him cooking through a[…..]

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Hot and Fast: Coal-fired Pizza

IN THE KITCHEN Twin coal-fired ovens situated like eyes in the face of Angelo’s open kitchen never sleep. For service, from 11 to 11, they’re fully stoked and large piles of glowing coals can be seen pushed to the side of the ovens’ floors. By morning, the fires have burned low, making the hot caves[…..]

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Vodka pie crust, shaken not stirred (repost)

So a cold wind blew in last week, and like a dumb blonde turns toward the nearest guy, it made me want to make apple pie. I’m not much of a baker, but I have a few confections in my repertoire, and apple pie is what I make this time of year. I’ve been using[…..]

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Revisiting honey bees in Miami

There are some things in life I can’t fathom. For instance, how can honey bees do all they do? I mean, consider the half-pound of honey on my kitchen counter here in my new house in Miami and ponder this: One bee, in her life, contributes a total of only about an eighth of a[…..]

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A Monkfish Tale

VENICE, Italy – It’s an early August afternoon at the restaurant Antica Locanda Montin and owner Luca Carrettin is extremely animated as he talks about monkfish. Even if you don’t speak Italian, some of the words he uses are understandable, like brutta (ugly), which he calls the fish, and fantastico, which he uses to describe[…..]

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Summer places: clam shacks mix fried fare and memories

As Chef Art D’Allessandro  lowers a piece of cod into hot oil at Arthur & Pat’s in Brant Rock, he’s doing the same thing cooks have been doing at this Marshfield institution since his parents opened it almost 40 years ago. Not much changes in the world of the South Shore clam shack and that’s[…..]

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Waterside dining in urban spot

To spear a full sliver of garlic from the broth of some good mussels, you have to trust the chef: Undercooked and it’ll ruin your night; cooked well, it’ll half make it. When faced with the choice at 88 Wharf last month, I took the plunge knowing that Josh Ziskin had recently come on board[…..]

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For Jacques Pepin cooking is about creating pleasure

As Jacques Pépin made the rounds of the 120 guests attending the celebrity chef dinner at Hingham’s Summer Shack last Monday, guest after guest embraced the legendary chef – metaphorically or literally. “We just love you!’’ said a woman as she held Pépin’s hand in both her own. An exceedingly social creature, Pépin matched this[…..]

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Wahlberg brothers open Wahlburgers

News of the recent opening of Hingham’s new burger joint exploded this summer in a Hollywood-powered media blitz that was hard to miss. Even before the TV segments, newspaper, US and People magazine blurbs, there was lots of local talk: a deal for a reality show on the place had been signed; a green initiative,[…..]

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Making hot sauce like they have for decades

Once a year, in September, Maria Rodrigues makes enough fantastically delicious hot sauce to last her family a year. It takes a lot of peppers. “I get four bushels – the long red ones,” said Rodrigues, who’s been making the sauce since she was girl in the Azores. Having heard big raves about this hot[…..]

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Celtics Ray and wife Shannon Allen debut new Food show

If anyone could get the very private young Celtics star Rajon Rondo to cook for all the world to see, it would be Shannon Allen, the wife of Rondo’s teammate Ray Allen. And Shannon does that – on tape – in an upcoming episode of her new Comcast SportsNet and NECN food show, “The Pre-Game[…..]

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Cooking with Chef Kevin Long at Tosca

Wondering what would be special for holiday eats, I called one of my favorite chefs, Kevin Long, to see what he was doing. “I thought oysters with a pomegranate mignonette would be kind of fun,” said Long, when I walked into Tosca in Hingham one afternoon last week. The chef stood all in white behind[…..]

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Postcard from New Orleans — with Drago’s oysters

It’s late October and I’m sitting in Drago’s Seafood Restaurant and Oyster Bar in New Orleans on the first night of a five-day family reunion at my brother- and sister-in-law’s house in the French Quarter. Having relatives in great places is sweet and this is my sixth or seventh trip to the city. And, because[…..]

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Cool in the kitchen – and the dining room

Tony DeRienzo is one cool guy under pressure. Standing in the middle of his new 200-seat restaurant Littlenecks Bar & Grill in Weymouth — 10 days before its scheduled opening, DeRienzo has the demeanor of somebody hanging with friends at a cookout. Just seeing all the unfinished details in the place makes me anxious: boxes,[…..]

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