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At Sorelle Bar & Grill, a confident chef in her prime

IN THE KITCHEN I take it as a sign of a chef’s confidence to offer salt and pepper at the table, and chef Andrea Schnell has it and does. Not that I’ve needed it -- everything I’ve eaten on three visits has been perfectly seasoned. The great reputations that Schnell and her … [Read more...]

Big time Boston chef hangs his apron in Cohasset

IN THE KITCHEN It’s nice seeing Blu Mussel chef-owner Anthony Ambrose step into the dining room to visit a table or talk with guests. Ambrose made his name when he opened his first restaurant, Ambrosia on Huntington, in the early ‘90s. Among the many accolades it received, … [Read more...]

At Art’s, Food that matches the view

IN THE KITCHEN To get the picture, you have to understand this: Art’s is owned by the dynamic brother and sister who ran the iconic Arthur and Pat’s in Marshfield for more than 30 years until the weather-beaten beach place simply couldn’t be resurrected after the bruising … [Read more...]

Little Carmen’s for breakfast and lunch

IN THE KITCHEN After years of owning Carmen’s Café Nicole on Plymouth Harbor, with its tourist-based, weather-driven seasonal uncertainties, Nicole DiGuisto is thrilled to have landed in Norwell in a year-round, busy location. Her new breakfast-and-lunch place, Little … [Read more...]

Milton restaurant draws a crowd

IN THE KITCHEN The open, V-shaped, stainless steel kitchen in the rear of Novara looks like the crowded prow of a ship forging the way forward. At the helm, overseeing six to eight cooks, is executive chef Tony DiRienzo, who performs the same role at Abby Park, two doors up the … [Read more...]

Wahlberg’s burger contest at Wahlburgers

Chef Paul Wahlberg sat at the head of the table in the café side of Wahlburgers, pristine white apron matching the sheet of paper covered in scribblings in front of him. There was the recipe for “Stuffed Chili Dog Burger,” with hot dog, chili, and cheese nestled between two … [Read more...]

Waterside dining in urban spot

To spear a full sliver of garlic from the broth of some good mussels, you have to trust the chef: Undercooked and it’ll ruin your night; cooked well, it’ll half make it. When faced with the choice at 88 Wharf last month, I took the plunge knowing that Josh Ziskin had recently … [Read more...]

For Jacques Pepin cooking is about creating pleasure

As Jacques Pépin made the rounds of the 120 guests attending the celebrity chef dinner at Hingham’s Summer Shack last Monday, guest after guest embraced the legendary chef - metaphorically or literally. “We just love you!’’ said a woman as she held Pépin’s hand in both her … [Read more...]

Bread, chevre, and honey from Glastonbury Abbey

I’m standing in the large kitchen at Hingham's Glastonbury Abbey talking to its head cook, John Gauley, when Father Tom, one of the monastery’s 12 Benedictine monks, pops in. I’m glad because although I’m here to talk about the food Gauley makes, I don’t know what monks actually … [Read more...]

A comfy spot gets sophisticated

It's easy to miss Remick’s, the new restaurant in downtown Quincy at the site of the former Finian’s. The brick building is quietly handsome and the only sign is a flat spread of letters that simply spells Remick’s.   The interior design is similarly … [Read more...]