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Come summer, this place will be hard to get into

Photo by Joan Wilder for the Boston Globe

Photo for the Boston Globe by Joan Wilder


It could be how great the place looks. Or that it’s at the beach. But, really, I think it’s the cusabi taco sauce that’s gotten me so excited about California Underground Tacos & Bar. I’m crazy about it and also like that co-owner and longtime taco-maker Eo Martin uses buttermilk as the base for this creamy cucumber-horseradish sauce, rather than mayo. Martin owned a pizza place in a small town in Alabama before moving to Hull eight years ago, so he knows his way around a kitchen. “We’re passionate about food,” said Martin’s wife and co-owner, Ozzy Martin. “He’s always made tacos and everybody loves them, so I thought, why don’t we open a taco place?”

Cod EO Taco with casaba sauce Photo by Joan Wilder for the Boston Globe

Cod EO Taco with casaba sauce. Photo by Joan Wilder for the Boston Globe



California Underground is at the site of the old Anastos Corner breakfast spot at the mainland end of town, so it’s less than three miles from the Hingham rotary. It opened in mid-November, and you would not recognize the place. Martin spent nine months totally gutting and renovating every inch of the restaurant himself with help from a contractor friend. The 42-seat space has big windows, high and low tables, an L-shaped, copper bar, pendant lighting, and lots of wood — even the ceiling. If you sit at the bar, the tender takes your order; otherwise you order up front and your food will be delivered. Five TVs (sound off) look ready to accommodate a crowd when some big Boston game or another is on.


To accommodate those who don’t feel like going all the way taco, Martin offers bun tacos ($4) and Americano tacos ($3). Each can be ordered with steak, pork, chicken, or ground sirloin. The bun tacos come with lettuce and cheese, and the Americanos come on a tortilla with lettuce, cheese, and tomato.

California Underground Tacos & Bar, 257 Nantasket Ave., Hull, 781-925-8749.

Joan Wilder can be reached at